Understand

• Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau, 150 Fourth Avenue North, +1 615 259-4730.

Get in

By plane

• Nashville International Airport (BNA), Is about five miles from downtown.
• John C. Tune Airport, 110 Tune Airport Dr., +1 615 350-5000.
• Smyrna/Rutherford County Airport, 278 Doug Warpoole Rd., Smyrna, +1 615 459-2651.
• Cornelia Fort Airport, 2640 Air Park Dr., +1 615 226-4258.
• American Charter Express, 4432 Airport Rd., Springfield, +1 615 384-4181.
• Lebanon Airport 760 Franklin Rd, Lebanon, +1 615 444-0031.
• Murfreesboro Municipal Airport, 1930 Memorial Blvd, Murfreesboro, +1 615 848-3254.

By car

Nashville is the nexus of several interstate highways, including I-65 (north-south), I-40 (east-west), and I-24 (northwest-southeast). The various highways sometimes merge and split without the typical exit-offramp design, so travellers should consult maps before attempting to navigate the area. There is easy access to/from Chattanooga, Knoxville, Memphis, Louisville, among others.

By bus

Greyhound, 200 8th Ave, +1 615 255-3556, Located right in the Music Row downtown district.

Get around

By bus

Nashville MTA, +1 615 862-5969. Operates routes throughout downtown and the surrounding area. $1.25 for an adult local fare, with no transfers allowed. An all-day pass for an adult is $3.75.

Nashville's bus system is designed around a central station. The schedule accommodates a 9AM-5PM schedule with limited late night service.

By train

The Music City Star, +1 615 862-8833. Commuter train runs Monday - Friday. The train runs from Lebanon to Downtown's Riverfront Station. One-Way tickets purchased at the platform are $5.00 each. There are two shuttle services that transport people for no extra charge, passengers use their Music City Star ticket to board. Shuttle 93 goes up Broadway, West End, and around the Vanderbilt area. Shuttle 94 loops through Downtown. If you wish to go to any other place in the city, you can catch the Downtown Shuttle at the Riverfront Station and exit at the downtown bus mall then catch the bus that is going to your destination.

By car

Car is always your best bet. Average speed on highways ranges from 55-70 mph, while city streets are generally 35 mph unless otherwise posted.

• Alamo, 1-800-327-9633
• Avis, 1-800-230-4898
• Budget, 1-800-572-0700
• Dollar, 1-800-800-3665
• Enterprise, 1-800-736-8222
• Hertz, 1-800-654-3131
• National, 1-800-227-7368
• Thrify, 1-800-847-4389

See

Nashville is a very historic town and as such, many of its attractions are restorations or museums.

• Belle Meade Plantation, 5025 Harding Road, +1 615 356 0501 (group sales: 1-800-270-3991). Tours by costumed guides available M-Sa 9:30AM-4PM, Su 11:30AM-4PM. Featuring the mansion built in 1853 and restored restored, as well as the carriage house from 1890 and one of the oldest log cabins in Tennessee, built in 1790. There is a great deal of history associated with the plantation starting from before the American Civil War. Adult $11, Seniors $10, Children 6-12 $5, Children under 6, Free.

• BellSouth Tower. An instantly recognizable downtown Nashville landmark, the Bellsouth Tower is the tallest building in Tennessee and can be seen from quite some distance when the hills aren't in your way. It's two tall spires on the building have resulted in it being nicknamed "The Batman Building."

• Bicentennial Mall A fascinating state park stretched out in front of the state capitol building. Features a giant map of the state, monuments recounting the history of the state since prehistoric times, a carillon, and more. In the summer, the fountains are often filled with splashing kids. The park is located right next to the farmers market, which includes a food court, fish market, nursery, as well as the expected vendors hawking fruits and vegetables.

• Belmont Mansion 1900 Blemont Blvd, +1 615 460-5459. M-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 1PM-4PM. Closed Memorial Day. An approximate one hour guided tour of 16 rooms in the mansion. Also walk the grounds to examine the marble statues and cast iron ornaments in the gardens. Adults $8, Seniors $7, Children (6-12) $3.

• Centennial Park, West End Avenue at 25th Avenue. Features a nice duck pond, where you can get up close with the ducks and feed them, as well as a real steam engine train, dating back in the 1800's and a fighter jet on a large, metal stand, to give the appearance of flight.
  • The Parthenon, located in Centennial Park, Tu-Sa 9AM-4:30PM. Also Su 12:30PM-4:30PM from June to August. Originally created for Tennessee's Centennial Exposition, this monument was such a well-received attraction that a permanent form was constructed. It maintains the dimensions of the original Athens Parthenon to within a quarter of an inch (at 2/3 the scale), though constructed mainly of concrete as opposed to marble. Inside stands a replica of the statue of the goddess Athena thought to have existed in the original Parthenon. Adults $5, Seniors $2.50, Children 4-17 $2.50, Children under 4 free.

• Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art, 1200 Forrest Park Dr, +1 615 356-800, Tu-Sa 9:30AM-4:30PM, Su 11AM-4:30PM. Closed on every Monday except for Memorial Day and Labor Day. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's day, as well as the second Saturday in June. A 55 acre estate built by the founders of Maxwell House coffee on the fringes of the city featuring an art museum and a beautiful botanical garden. The art museum features American and Europeans exhibits. Adults $10, Seniors $8, College Students $5, Children 3-13 $5, Children under 3 free. The most any family will pay is $30, thanks to an admission cap.

• Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, 222 Fifth Ave S, 1-800-852-6437, Daily 9AM-5PM except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Days. Regularly changing exhibits and live performances make this Nashville landmark someplace to visit often. The original Country Music Hall of Fame was built in 1967 and lasted until 2000 when they moved into their new $37 million dollar location. Ticket packages for guided or audio tours also available, as well as combining a tour with the RCA Studio B and the Ryman Auditorium. Adult $17.95, Youth $8.95, Children under 5 free.

• Fort Negley. A civil-war era fort partially reconstructed by the Works Progress Administration in the 1930s. Taken by Union forces early in the war, Nashville quickly became second most fortified city in the US during the Civil War because it was seen as crucial to supplying troops engaged on the war's western front. The 1864 Battle of Nashville -- a failed attempt by the Confederate army to retake the city -- raged throughout what are now the residential and commercial districts on the fringes of the city. Fort Negley is one of the few remaining reminders of this time period. Much of the work on the fort was done by slaves and freed blacks who were rounded up and forced to work on the structure. The fort was closed for years (allegedly because it reminded many Nashvillians of the Union occupation), but reopened in 2004 with new boardwalks and interpretive signs.

• Frist Center for the Visual Arts, 919 Broadway, M-W 10AM-5:30PM, Th 10AM-8PM, Fr 10AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-5:30PM, Su 1PM-5PM. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's, shortened hours the day after Thanksgiving and Christmas Eve. Featuring 24,000 sq. feet of gallery space with exhibits from local through to regional and all the way to international artists. The Frist strives to be a family friendly museum and as such has created ArtQuest, a colorful space with 30 interactive stations. Adults $8.50, College Students $6.50, Seniors $7.50, Visitors 18 and under free.

• Hatch Show Print, 316 Broadway, +1 615 256-2805. Visit this traditional printing shop that uses letterpresses to create posters for entertainment events to see them prepare some posters. As the Hatch brothers allegedly put it, "Advertising without posters is like fishing without worms."

• Military Museum. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. Closed New Year's Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Admission to the permanent exhibit is free, and only a few temporary have an admission charge.

• Musica, Revealed in 2003, Musica is a 38 foot tall sculpture featuring 9 nude dancing figures created by Alan Lequire and is located in a roundabout in the heart of Music Row.

• Music Valley Wax Museum, 2515 McGavock St, +1 615 883-3612. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day hours are 9AM-9PM, otherwise they are 9AM-5PM. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's. See over 50 country music stars dressed in their stage outfits as well as hundreds of autographs on the "Sidewalk of the Stars." Adults $3.50, Children (6-12) $1.50, Children under 5 free.

• Radnor Lake, Otter Creek Road, +1 615 373-3467, Open 6AM to sunset. Visitor Center Su-Th 9AM-5PM, Fr-Sa 8AM-4:30PM. Often called "Nashville's Walden," Radnor Lake was formed when the railroad companies dammed up a small stream to provide a reliable water source for their railroad yards. Although it is located in the heart of a residential suburb south of town, hikers on the miles of trails around the pond feel like they are in the heart of the wilderness. $3 daily or $30 annual parking fee.

• Ryman Auditorium, 116 5th Ave N, +1 615 889-3060, Daily 9AM-4PM for tours. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day. Completed in 1892 as the Union Gospel Tabernacle as commissioned by riverboat Captain Thomas Green Ryman, a newly converted southern evangelist. The Ryman has earned its mark in history by hosting the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974 and is now a fantastically intimate setting for concerts of all genres. It has been named Pollstar's "America's Theatre of the Year" for two years in a row, as well as one of CitySearch's top ten "Best Places to Hear Live Music." Adults $8.50 for the standard tour or $11.75 to add the backstage tour, Children (4-11) $4.25 or $7.50 respectively.

• Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge. Built between 1907 and 1909, the bridge was used for automobile traffic between East Nashville and Downtown. The bridge has recently been converted to a pedestrian bridge, and offers a spectacular view of the riverfront and downtown skyline. It is a very popular and convenient route to the Titan's football stadium.

• The Hermitage, 4580 Rachel's Lane, +1 615 889-2941, Daily 9AM-5PM, except Thanksgiving, Christmas and the 3rd week of January. The former home of US President Andrew Jackson is full of his family's personal possessions, and is adorned with much of the furniture that they personally purchased. It was one of the first historic preservation projects in the state of Tennessee. This was accomplished by the Ladies' Hermitage Association which was modeled after the Mount Vernon Ladies Association that had restored George Washington's home. Plan for a two hour tour with a moderate amount of walking. Cameras, video cameras, food nor drink are allowed within the Hermitage or the exhibit gallery. Security precautions are taken and the Hermitage asks that all backpacks or large bags be left in your vehicle. Adults $12, Seniors $11, Students (13-18) $11, Children (6-12) $5, Children 5 and under free. Family pass for 2 adults and 2 children, $34.

• Tennessee Performing Arts Center, 505 Deadrick St, +1 615 782-4000, The TPAC, as it is known, is home to the Nashville Ballet, Nashville Opera Association, Tennessee Repertory Theatre, and the acclaimed Nashville Symphony.

• Tennessee State Capitol. Guided tours available M-F 9AM-4PM. Closed all holidays. Free admission.

• Tennessee State Museum, 505 Deadrick St, +1 615 741-2692, 1-800-407-4324, Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 1PM-5PM. Closed New Year's Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. With over 70,000 square feet of exhibit space, this is one of the nation's largest state museums. It's permanent exhibits are split into several categories, including: Prehistoric, Frontier, Age of Jackson, Antebellum, Civil War, and Reconstruction. Admission to the permanent exhibit is free, and only a few temporary have an admission charge.

Do

• Adventure Science Center, Formerly the Cumberland Science Museum, it's been remodeled recently. You should be able to get in for under ten bucks, and they have a lot of interesting exhibits which change every few weeks.

• Centennial Sportsplex, 222 25th Avenue N, +1 615 862-8480, Featuring two indoor ice skating rinks, two pools, indoor and outdoor tennis courts, and a fitness room. Ice skating admission is $6 with skate rentals available for $2. Memberships are available. Call or check online for the schedules, as they vary from month to month. The Sportsplex is also a practice location for the Nashville Predators professional hockey team.

• General Jackson Showboat, 2800 Opryland Dr, +1 615 458-3900, Get a meal and a show on this classically styled 300 foot long paddlewheel boat. Midday cruises, including buffet and show, $38.95 plus tax for adults and $21.95 for kids 4-11. Dinner cruises range from $44.95 to $74.95 for adults and $27.95 to $42.95 for kids. Shows and schedules vary throughout the year.

• Nashville Zoo at Grassmere, 3777 Nolensville Rd, +1 615 833-1534, Displaying many animals and hosting activities for the family, including a large playground with two-story netting that you can swing onto (off a rope), or just jump and roll around on. The zoo is getting bigger and better every day. Two recent additions include an aviary where you can feed lorikeets nectar by hand, and an amazing hand-carved wooden carousel. Admission from April through October is $11 for adults, $9.50 for seniors (65+), and $7 for children (3-12) and the hours are from 9AM-6PM. From November through March, $8 for adults, $7 for seniors, $6 for children with hours of 9AM-4PM. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day. Inclement weather may cause an unannounced closing for safety.

• Nashville Candy. Did you know that the first documentation for "...commercializing cotton candy was in 1897 when it was produced by the Nashville candy makers William Morrison and John C. Wharton..."? Did you know that the first "combination" candy bar was invented in 1912 by the Standard Candy Company in Nashville? Candy is as popular now as it was then. Visit the home of the GooGoo Cluster, Standard Candy Company.

Sports

• Nashville Predators, The local NHL hockey team plays their home games at the Sommet Center, which is located on Broadway in the heart of downtown. In May of 1998 the Predators were named the 27th franchise in league history and their first playoff game came in 2004. Tickets start at $10 and are available through Ticketmaster.

• Nashville Sounds, +1 615 242-4371, The local minor league baseball team currently plays in Greer Stadium, but talks about a brand new stadium are ongoing. General admission tickets are $6 and reserved seats are $10.

• Tennessee Titans, The local NFL football team plays their home games at LP Field, (formerly Adelphia Coliseum), which is located across the river from downtown (it's big, you'll see it). Once the Houston Oilers, the team was reborn as the Tennessee Titans in 1999.

Learn

• Vanderbilt University, One of America's top 20 universities, Vanderbilt is home to just over 11,000 undergraduate and professional students. Vanderbilt offers 66 major fields of study in the arts and sciences, engineering, music, education, and human development, as well as a full range of graduate and professional degrees.
• Middle Tennessee State University (MTSU), In Murfreesboro.
• Austin Peay State University,
• Belmont University, 1900 Belmont Blvd, +1 615 460-6000, A private university offering undergraduate and graduate degree programs in over 65 different studies.
• Fisk University, 1000 17th Ave N, +1 615 329-8500, Fisk University has a long history. It is a liberal arts college that was founded in 1866 to educate freed slaves and has since then seen many distinguished graduates.
• Lipscomb University
• Tennessee State University, 3500 John A Merritt Blvd, +1 615 963-5000.
• Trevecca Nazarene University
• Aquinas College, 4210 Harding Rd, +1 615 297-7545, A private Catholic school with liberal arts and science curriculum.
• Free Will Baptist Bible College, 3606 West End Ave, +1 615 844-5000, Founded in 1942, FWBBC now enrolls around 350 students per year and offers them a number of degree programs.
• Nashville State Community College
• Strayer University
• Tennessee Foreign Language Institute, 227 French Landing Dr., Suite 100. +1 615 741-7579, One of a kind state-supported language institute offering classes on site and in the workplace in up to 141 languages, including ESL, and interpretation and translation services to government, business and the community at large.
• Nossi College of Art
• O'More College of Design, Franklin
• The Art Institute of Tennessee- Nashville
• Meharry Medical College
• Volunteer State Community College

Work

Buy

Major shopping malls include: NASHVILLE:

• Mall at Green Hills, I-440 exit 3 (Hillsboro Pk), located in Green Hills.
• Hickory Hollow Mall, I-24 exit 59, located in Antioch.
• Opry Mills, Former location of Opryland Theme Park, includes mostly outlet stores, and a IMAX and a Regal Cinema.
• Rivergate Mall, Located in Goodlettsville.
• Bellevue Mall, Located in Bellevue. Sears, Dillard's, and Macy's remain, but otherwise a haven for mall-walkers.
• 100 Oaks Mall, I-65 near exit 78. (Unfortunately there are few tenants inside, only the "destination" stores on the outside and the perimeter)

For a less generic shopping experience:

• 12 South District. Several fun (though pricey) vintage stores, including Katy K's Ranch Dressing (awesome country-western outfits), Savant, and Local Honey (on a side street, also has clothing by local designers). Also home to the Art House gallery.

• East Nashville/5 Points, Head to the Hip Zipper for vintage clothing, Nitwit and Kids for new and vintage clothing and gifts with attitude, Earth Stuph for green-minded clothing and gifts, the Turnip Truck for health food, or the Art and Invention Gallery for fine art and handmade jewelry.

• Hillsboro Village, Short section of 21st Ave. just south of Vanderbilt. Home of Nashville's most popular used bookstore, BookMan/BookWoman; A Thousand Faces (jewelry and local art); Pangaea (quirky gifts); and a well-stocked kitchen goods and coffee store.

• Grimey's, The best independent record store in town. Cramped, but has a good selection of vinyl and "pre-loved" music. Hosts free in-store performances by both local and nationally-known bands, usually in the afternoon or early evening.

FRANKLIN:

• Coolsprings Galleria, I-65 South exit 69.

MURFREESBORO:

• Stones River Mall, I-24 East exit 78b.

CLARKSVILLE:

• Governers Square Mall, I-24 West exit 4.

Eat

Budget

There are a number of pizza restaurants and Chinese buffets in and around the area. The following are examples of more prominent establishments in the Nashville area:

• Arnold's, 8th Avenue South. A classic "meat and 3" restaurant located in downtown. Arnold's has been a Nashville establishment for years and always attracts a crowd. They serve some of the best fried green tomatoes you'll ever eat, but the pie has so much sugar it's grainy. Only open for lunch.

• Hermitage Cafe, just south of downtown on Hermitage Ave. Open 24 hours, this diner-coffeeshop is divey, friendly, cheap, greasy, and as southern as white gravy on fried chicken. Perfect if you're drunk or a night owl, which most of the other customers here are (except at breakfast, which draws a mix of polite older couples and hungover kids). An ancient cigarette machine and a well-stocked jukebox.

• Jersey Mike's, three locations, including White Bridge Road. Get a really good sub-sandwich (think Subway with a little more flavor) meal here for under seven bucks.

• Bobby's Dairy Dip. An endearingly dingy 50s ice cream stand on Charlotte Ave., recently revived into a popular summer mainstay that's popular with every demographic. Their hamburgers, hot dogs, and fries are some of Nashville's favorites, and the strawberry shortcake's great.

• Las Palmas, on Charlotte Ave (between White Bridge and 42nd; another location off Broadway at 19th Ave and one at Nipper's Corner in Brentwood), A pretty good Mexican place. You can get a nice filling meal here for under ten bucks.

• Las Paletas, 12th Ave. S (at Kirkwood in the Cypress Building). Save room after your Mexican meal for Las Paletas' delicious homemade popsicles in exotic flavors! The Paz sisters ate them often when growing up in Mexico and have now brought us their own take on the treats. Hibiscus, basil, chocolate jalapeno, and rose petal are all delicious; so are the tamer versions, like mango, raspberry, chai tea, chocolate chip cookie, and Mexican caramel.

• Taste of India, on Church Street near 18th. If you're in midtown at midday, check out this little Indian place. Its $6 lunch buffet is cheaper than that at Sitar down the block, plus its food is far better and more varied.

• Maggie Moo's, two locations: Green Hills Mall and on West End. This chain reigns as Nashville's premier ice cream shop.

• La Hacienda Taqueria, two outposts along the largely Hispanic strip of Nolensville Road. This popular restaurant serves some of Nashville's most authentic Mexican food. The tacos and shrimp cocktail are very popular.

• Bongo Java, on Belmont Blvd (across from the school). The first and most relaxed in a very successful local mini-chain of quirky coffeehouses, Bongo Java is a meeting place for the young, the arty, and the students at Belmont University just across the street. Linger for hours on the huge porch over several cups of their incredibly strong, flavorful coffee, and take advantage of the free computer, wifi, and chess set use. Nearby sister coffeehouse Fido in Hillsboro Village attracts a more yuppie/Vandy crowd.

• Rotier's, on Elliston near F.Y.E. An old, friendly neighborhood joint whose hamburger and milkshake are consistently voted the best in Nashville. Get the grilled version of the cheeseburger -- basically a grilled cheese with a hamburger in it.

• Pizza Perfect. Fabulous pizza, quite simply. Nashville isn't much of a town for pizza, but this place more than makes up for it. The plain slices are great, but even the fancier ones (like the Fantasy) don't gild the lily. Free liva jazz Thursday nights at the 21st Ave. location (between Vandy and Hillsboro Village); there's another smaller shop on Granny White/12th Ave. across from Lipscomb.

• The Arcade, in downtown. It's an open-air 2-level arcade that runs between 4th Avenue North and 5th Avenue North. The Arcade primarily caters to the local downtown workers during the work week, but many great lunch restaurants can be found here, including Manny's House of Pizza, Phillip's Deli, and others. There are also several hairstylists, jewelers, florists, and other businesses. Be sure to visit the historic Peanut Shop.

• Woodlands Indian Vegetarian, on West End between the exits from I-440 W and I-440 E (It's in a condo building and almost obscured by trees). Amazing southern Indian food. Very long menu, but the servers are helpful. The specials are a good sampler.

Mid-range

• Bistro 215, 3821 Green Hills Village Drive, +1 615 385-3636, Fantastic food and wine.

• Boscos, 1805 21st Avenue South, +1 615 385-0050, Located in Hillsboro Village, this regional chain micro-brewery is a popular night restaurant, serving a wide variety of food with its beers.

• Cafe Nonna, 4427 Murphy Road, +1 615 463-0133, Another well-liked Italian restaurant, this intimate neighborhood place keeps its menu small and its dishes impeccably prepared. With the fresh ingredients and simple preparation, you might as easily be in some Tuscan hill town. Located in Sylvan Park.

• French Quarter Cafe, 823 Woodland Street, +1 615 227-3100, Located in East Nashville, this cafe tends to lean more towards being a bar with its billiards table, live music, and blacklights, but thats not to say the food isn't any good. Reasonably authentic cajun and creole dishes severed in reasonably sized portions, instead of those chain restaurant portions that one person can't possibly eat. Muffulettas, po' boys, as well as red beans and rice are the big features. Average prices between $6 and $15.

• Goldie's Deli, 4520 Harding Pike, +1 615 292-3589. One of Nashville's best (and only) Jewish delis, located in one of Nashville's WASPiest neighborhoods. Similar to Jersey Mike's, though a bit more expensive. Next to the Belle Meade Kroger on Harding Road. Also in Sylvan Park.

• Jack's Barbeque, 416 Broadway, +1 615 254-5715, Don't miss this authentic Tennessee barbecue joint right beside the Ryman Auditorium. Located on Lower Broadway -- just look for the neon sign featuring flying pigs! Also at 334 West Trinity Lane, +1 615 228-9888.

• Maggiano's Little Italy, 3106 West End Avenue, (a few blocks south of Vanderbilt University), +1 615 514-0270 (fax: +1 615 514-0271, carryout: +1 615 514-0275, banquet: +1 615 514-0280), A busy Italian restuarant, serving Southern Italian meals, most famously in "family style", portions that are more than large enough to share. Reservations recommended for parties of any size. Open for lunch and dinner, seven days.

• Pancake Pantry, 1796 21st Avenue South, +1 615 383-9333, A Nashville landmark and basically the best place in town for breakfast, anytime before 3PM. The frosted haired waitresses will call you "honey," and the pancakes will be better than you'd ever realized pancakes could be. Don't be daunted by the line snaking around the block on weekends; it moves quickly, and you get free coffee while you wait.

• Rosepepper Grille and Cantina, 1907 Eastland Avenue, +1 615 227-4777. A neighborhood favorite for several years now, this popular and upbeat nouveau Mexican place is in East Nashville, a bit off the tourist's beaten path.

• San Antonio Taco Company, or SATCO, 416 21st Avenue South, +1 615 327-4322. Always a favorite with Vandy kids, offering reliably so-so Tex-Mex food (very little meat on the tacos, and the guacamole has tons of pepper) and cheap buckets of beer. Right off the Vanderbilt campus. Stop by Ben & Jerry's next door for dessert. Caveat: Towing in this area can be ruthless. Check the signs wherever you park.

• Sole Mio, 311 3rd Avenue South, +1 615 256-4013. Long considered Nashville's best Italian restaurants, this place excels even in its new, viewless location on 3rd Ave - and, impressively, manages to keep its prices low. Subtle variations on traditional dishes keep things interesting, and the service is great. Seafood dishes and homemade ravioli are great.

Splurge

• Mario's. A five star Italian restaurant located off of Music Row (21st Ave S.). Mario's was recently damaged by fire and is currently closed.

• Sunset Grille. Consistently voted one of Nashville's best restaurants, this friendly place in Hillsboro Village has an excellent, inexpensive late-night menu. Focuses on Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, and has a large selection of fine wines. Best dessert and wine list!

• F. Scott's. Usually ranked as one of Nashville's best restaurants. If you go after 9PM on any night, all entrees are half price, which makes it quite affordable - not to mention atmospheric, as by that time there's a jazz band playing in the other room. Occasionally the chefs get overambitious and fall short, but most dishes - especially appetizers, vegetables, fowl, and beef - are fantastic.

• Margot. This quirky local restaurant at Five Points in East Nashville is considered by many to be Nashville best local chef owned restaurant. It features a seasonal menu that is frequently changed. Don't miss the hot chocolate topped with a homemade marshmellow for an after-dinner treat.

• Saffire. Relaxed, upscale, and well worth the fifteen minutes on I-65 South, this restaurant in the Factory shopping center in Franklin has a reputation for excellent food. It's not too expensive, either, and often has live music.

Drink

• 3 Crow Bar, 1024 Woodland Street, +1-(615)-262-3345. Located in the Five Points area of East Nashville is the linchpin in a cluster of bars all within a stone's throw of one another: Red Door Saloon, which also has an outpost in midtown; The 5 Spot, a pleasant nonsmoking spot that often books local bands; Beyond the Edge, a large sports bar; the Alley Cat, a popular neighborhood hangout with good food selection; and more.

• 3rd and Lindsley, 818 3rd Avenue South (Just south of downtown and a little hard to find at the intersection of those two streets), +1-(615)-259-9891, 3rd and Lindsley offers loud country- and blues-rock from local and touring performers.

• Bar 23. Bar 23 in the Gulch is where you'll go to be seen and to feel like you're, well, not in Nashville. Usually populated by girls in designer jeans and lots of young professionals trying to loosen their ties.

• Bluebird Cafe, 4104 Hillsboro Pike, +1-(615)-383-1461, With its unlikely location in a strip mall in Green Hills, has long been the destination of choice for local and national songwriters, fans of songwriters, and label scouts. Expect schmoozing, sets in-the-round, and lines around the block. Keep in mind, though, that quiet is requested at all times during a performance.

• Cafe Coco, 210 Louise Avenue, +1-(615)-321-2626. Isn't a bar, per se, but it does serve beer and remains open 24 hours every day. Expect to find studious Vandy kids, scene-making hipsters, and drunk everybody at night. Located just off Elliston behind the Exit/In.

• Douglas Corner Cafe, 2106 8th Avenue South, +1-(615)-298-1688, Another major venue for songwriters hoping to be discovered as well as established songwriters revisiting their old haunts. Open mic nights every week.

• Exit/In, 2208 Elliston Place, +1-(615)-321-3340, A standby for mid-level touring bands of all varieties for decades. Check out the names of past performers over the bar.

• Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, 1010 Demonbreun Street, +1-(615)-259-7468, Huge assortment of beers available here.

• Graham Central Station, 128 2nd Avenue North, +1-(615)-251-9593, A multi-level complex of a dance club right downtown.

• Lipstick Lounge, 1400 Woodland Street, +1-(615)-226-6343, Initially opened as a lesbian bar, the lipstick lounge now considers itself "a bar for humans."

• Mercy Lounge, Address (Somewhat hard to find, on Cannery Row off 8th Ave. downtown.), +1-(615)-251-3020, A welcome new addition to the bar scene. Its many red pool tables, large deck, friendly vibe, and live band karaoke nights add to its charm. Often hosts nationally-known indie bands.

• Radio Cafe (Located on Woodland in East Nashville just next to the Lipstick Lounge). Radio Cafe is a relaxed and pleasant neighborhood bar that often features local bands and songwriters on its small stage.

• Springwater, 115 27th Avenue North, +1-(615)-320-0345, Located next to Centennial Park, this is one of Nashville's most reliable dive bars and often hosts underground and noisy local and touring bands. Once a speakeasy, later a hangout for Jimmy Hoffa, now host to a strange mix of local drunks, slumming Vandy kids, and musicians. Pool table, arcade games, good jukebox, good booker, a cheap beer-only bar, and a large screened-in cement block porch. Don't miss its regular Working Stiffs Jamboree.

• Station Inn, 402 12th Avenue South, +1-(615)-255-3307, A bit of a time warp, especially located in the middle of the now trendy Gulch area of 12th Ave. Its excellent bluegrass and old-time Americana shows have drawn loyal patrons for decades.

• The Basement, 1604 8th Avenue South, +1-(615)-254-8006, Intimate (read: cramped); owner and man-around-town Mike Grimes books everything from country singer-songwriters to young noise bands. Above the venue is Grimey's, his record store that consistently is voted best independent record store in Nashville. A non-smoking, 21+ club.

• The Beer Sellar, 107 Church Street, +1-(615)-254-9464. Located downown this is a fun place; it sometimes has all-you-can-drink evenings for around $20. Go for their wide selection of beers.

• The End, 2219 Elliston Place, +1-(615)-321-4457. Located just across from Exit/In, it regularly books reliable indie rock bands, both local and nationally known.

• Tootsie's Orchid Lounge, 422 Broadway (Corner of Broadway and 2nd Street), +1-(615)-726-0463, Tootsie's is one of the few denizens of lower Broad that looks like it's been there for half a century - and it has. An old honkytonk where many major country stars got their starts.

• Wild Horse Saloon, 120 2nd Avenue North, +1-(615)-902-8200, Located downtown, it offers line-dancing lessons during the day. It is conveniently located near quite a few other bars and clubs aimed at country music fans and tourists downtown, most of which tend to be bustling on weekends.

• Windows on the Cumberland, 112 2nd Avenue North, +1-(615)-251-0097, Offering a good beer selection, a great view of the river, and even better live bands, especially jazz.

Sleep

Budget

• Music City Hostel, 1809 Patterson St, +1 615 692-1277. Dorm beds at $25 per night, private rooms at $70 per night.

Hotels

• Best Western - Convention Center, 711 Union St, +1 615 242-4311. Located on the site of James K. Polk's home. Free parking and continental breakfast. $87-$145, nightly.
• Clubhouse Inn & Suites, 2435 Atrium Way, +1 615 883-0500. $68-$130, nightly.
• Days Inn - Coliseum, 211 N 1st St, +1 615 254-1551, $65-$120, nightly.
• Days Inn - Opryland, 3312 Dickerson Rd, +1 615 228-3421, $58-$65, nightly.
• Microtel Inn & Suites Nashville, 100 Coley Davis Court, +1 615 662-0004.
• Suburban Hotel - South, 1271 Antioch Pl, +1 615 333-6700, $40+ nightly or $180+ weekly.
• Quality Inn & Suites - Airport, 2521 Elm Hill Pike , $85-$100, nightly.

Mid-range

• Hilton Nashville Downtown, 121 Fourth Avenue South. All-luxury-suites with high speed wireless internet access offer guests of the Hilton Downtown Nashville a fantastic place to stay while visiting.
• AmeriSuites - Airport, 721 Royal Parkway, +1 615 493-5200. Located 0.5 miles from Nashville International Airport and eight miles from downtown Nashville.
• Hyatt Place - Opryland, 220 Rudy's Circle, +1 615 872-0422. Located 12 miles northeast of downtown Nashville and one mile from the Grand Old Opry and the Opry Mills shopping center.
• Best Western - Music Row, 1407 Division St, +1 615 242-1631. Located in the heart of "Music Row." Pet friendly, free breakfast. $60-$70, nightly.
• Best Western Suites - Opryland, 201 Music City Cir, +1 615 902-9940. All-suite hotel with refrigerator, microwave and coffee maker in rooms. Free breakfast, pool, sauna and fitness center. Approx $100, nightly.
• Country Inns & Suites - East Nashville, 3423 Percy Priest Dr, +1 615 277-1099. Clean and quite hotel just 10 mins from almost everything. Across the road from the beautiful Percy Priest lake. Free breakfast, pool, fitness center. Approx $80, nightly.
• Courtyard by Marriott - Airport, 2508 Elm Hill Pike, +1 615 883-9500. Under going renovations to improve its look and feel. $139.
• Courtyard by Marriott - Vanderbilt/West End, 1901 West End Ave, +1 615 327-9900. Free high-speed internet and complimentary shuttle service. $170-$210.
• Embassy Suites - Airport, 10 Century Blvd, +1 615 871-0033. Just minutes from Nashville Airport, five miles from the Opryland complex, the center of Music City, USA, and seven from downtown Nashville.
• Gaylord Opryland Resort, 2800 Opryland Dr, +1 615 889-1000. Featuring 9 acres of indoor gardens, rivers and pathways, all under climate-controlled glass atriums! Built on the site of the Opryland Theme Park, the Opryland Resort is located right next to Opry Mills mall. The hotel itself is a wonderful attraction, even if you aren't staying the night. $139-$179.
• Guest House Inn and Suites, 1909 Hayes Street, 615 329-1000. Located off of West End Ave. convenient to downtown, Vanderbilt, West End area restaurants and hospitals. Free shuttle, 108 rooms and suites.
• Holiday Inn Select - Vanderbilt, 2613 West End Ave, +1 615 327-4707. Located across the street from Centennial Park and only 2 miles from the city center. 300 rooms, pet friendly, outdoor pool and high-speed internet. $110-$145, nightly.
• Hotel Preston, 733 Briley Parkway, +1 615 361-5900. An attractive hotel that is well located. Unfortunately Briley Parkway is a near continuous state of construction, so traffic can be a bit of a pain around here. Outdoor pool, pet friendly, high-speed wireless internet. $86-$130, nightly.
• Loews - Vanderbilt, 2100 West End Ave, +1 615 320-1700. One of 16 in this luxury hotel chain. $135-$220, nightly.
• Millennium Maxwell House, 2025 MetroCenter Blvd, +1 615 259-4343. $130-$150. Make sure to get your "Goo Goo" cluster candy bar, a Nashville production, at check in so you can thoroughly enjoy this "County Music" themed hotel!
• Ramada Inn & Suites - Opryland/Airport North, 2425 Atrium Way, 615 883-5201. Varying floor plans can fit up to 6 people. Coin laundry facilities, free continental breakfast, and outdoor pool. $120-$230, nightly.
• Ramada Limited - Coliseum, 303 Interstate Dr, +1 615 244-6690. Located right next to the football stadium. Limit one car per room during football games and special events. Guitar shaped outdoor pool. $80-$200, nightly.

Splurge

• Holiday Inn Express - Downtown, 920 Broadway. Located right in the center of the action in downtown Nashville. Complimentary breakfast, high-speed internet. Approx $237, nightly.
• Marriott - Vanderbilt, 2555 West End Ave, +1 615 321-1300. Overlooking historic Vanderbilt University. High-speed internet available. Approx $200, nightly.
• Marriott - Airport, 600 Marriott Dr, +1 615 889-9300, Approx $175, nightly.
• The Hermitage Hotel, 231 Sixth Ave N, 1-888-888-9414. An upscale hotel with a beautiful lobby and rooms, as well as fantastic dining. Be sure to check out the famous men's room near the lobby. Approx $300, nightly.
• Union Station, 1001 Broadway, +1 615 726-1001. An over 100 year building made of limestone that is now a hotel run by Wyndham. $175-$225, nightly.

Contact

Newspaper

• The Tennessean, The main daily newspaper.
• The City Paper, A free weekday newspaper, smart and fast.
• All The Rage, A free weekly entertainment guide for Nashville.
• Nashville Scene, Nashville's oldest and largest weekly, now run by the Village Voice. Excellent entertainment news and reliable features, plus useful special issues (Annual Manual, Dining Guide, You're So Nashville If..., College Guide, Best of Nashville, etc.).

Stay safe

While Nashville is not known for being a particularly dangerous city, crime is a growing problem in many districts. North Nashville, especially the Bordeaux and MetroCenter areas should be avoided if travelling on foot or at night, if possible. Gang activity is also a moderate risk in South Nashville, and to a lesser extent the increasingly gentrifying East Nashville area. Some malls have implemented curfews and strict rules for all teenagers, though this has had the negative affect of fostering resentment and leading to crime in other areas.

Walking through Central Downtown, whether during day or night, is generally fairly safe. Nonetheless, one should watch out for a fair number of panhandlers. While a simple "I'm sorry, but I don't have any spare change" will usually dissuade most, some may become aggressive and will follow you down several blocks in an attempt to intimidate you. However, very few of these individuals actually mean to do you any harm, so it is best to merely ignore them.

Nashville's (and indeed, Middle Tennessee's in general) police are known for having some of the most strict officers in the Southern states.

Cope

Unlike the more conservative suburbs surrounding it, the city of Nashville has a more relaxed atmosphere. Also, it should be noted that while Nashville is liberal compared to neighboring regions, homosexuality in general is still a subject of strong distaste for many residents. Gay and lesbian travelers will probably be better received if they are discreet in public.

However, it should be noted that there is a growing gay entertainment district featuring a number of gay clubs, dance halls, lounges and restaurants on Church Street between 12th and 22nd Avenue. Gays are mostly accepted in the areas of Downtown, West Nashville, Hillsboro, and in some areas East Nashville, with South Nashville (and especially North Nashville) being less friendly.

Get out

• Fall Creek Falls, A spectacular waterfall located on the rim of the Cumberland Plateau, several hours outside of Nashville.

• Jack Daniel's Distillery, Located an 1.5 hours away in Lynchburg, the distillery still makes Tennessee Sour Mash Whisky the way Mr. Daniel did. Tours are available, but don't expect a tasting; the distillery is located in a dry county! (The lemonade given out out the tour's end, however, is held in high esteem.)

• George A. Dickel, Located about an hour from Nashville in Tullahoma, this distillery has been making whiskey since 1870 from a "secret mash of corn, barley and rye" that is barrel-aged for about 12 years!

• Franklin, Tennessee. Fifteen miles south of Nashville. A Historic civil-war town.